The knives come out
Esquire has bitch slapped two of Chicago’s chef darlings in its recent roundup of hot cuisine. Grant Achatz (Alinea) and Homaro Cantu (moto) both got dissed by columnist John Mariana either because
a) their food is too foofy and ridiculous
b) Mariani is a diva and requested too much special treatment
… depending on who you ask. The good news is, Mariani did give a nod to Ryan Poli (Butter). Oddly enough, Poli and Achatz come from the same breeding – both cutting their teeth at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Napa.
After seeing the photos of the whole 28 course meal, Alinea is definitely for the serious foodies out there. 7 hour meal? Don’t think I’m going to try that anytime soon. I get antsy at anything over 2 hours. But everyone’s got their own thing. Kudos to Chef Achatz.
You’d think the author, Mariani, would relish the chance to experience something different.